Canada: Regina – Canada’s Medieval Castle

 

Relaxing on an antique wood four poster bed in a medieval castle
Relaxing on an antique wood four poster bed in a medieval castle

The city of Regina is the location of a surprising building, Stone Hall Castle which is Canada’s only medieval castle.

Tonight I had a date with the owner of Stone Hall Castle, former professional ice hockey player, Jason Hall who now called this place home. What, you don’t believe that I had a date with a handsome, rich, professional athlete who lives in his own castle?

Obviously, of course I didn’t! Well it wasn’t a date in the conventional sense of the word. Or indeed, in any sense of the word at all. It was actually a personal guided tour. So I’ll now give you an accurate account of my evening and leave any fictional embellishments firmly in my imagination where they belong!

Grand entrance staircase
Grand entrance staircase

I’d found Stone Hall Castle online. You could take a guided tour of the castle in the afternoon or the evening.  You could also stay at the castle overnight.  But although you could stay at the castle, this wasn’t a hotel in the conventional sense of the word either. The owner lives in Stone Hall Castle and there are only a couple of rooms available to stay in. At around £900 per night, it was well out of my price range and apparently the price range of most other people too, as Jason said he didn’t have a lot of people staying, that wasn’t his main source of income.

If I had lots of money I would have treated myself to a couple of nights there, it was in a great location in the city centre, right by the Royal Saskatchewan Museum. And who hasn’t dreamt about sleeping in a medieval castle? As it was, I settled for a bed and breakfast round the corner and a tour of Stone Hall Castle instead.

I did think that Stone Hall Castle was a traditional hotel as I’d found the rooms available on the internet and as I walked up to it, I expected the door to be open and there to be a reception.  However, on arrival the front door was locked.

Reception Room complete with suit of armour in corner and bear skin visible in next room
Reception Room complete with suit of armour in corner and bear skin visible in next room

From the outside, Stone Hall Castle doesn’t look like a medieval castle, for a very good reason.  It wasn’t built during medieval times.  It’s in Canada, no one was building castles in Canada in the Middle Ages.  It’s only once you get inside that the magic begins.

I’d booked my tour for the evening online, which was the only way available for me to book, as it wasn’t a hotel with a reception I could walk into which would have enabled me to make enquiries.

I stood on the steps by the door of the castle waiting.  No one else was around.  I’d only booked my tour that afternoon, I was concerned that the booking hadn’t gone through and that there was no tour tonight after all.  However, at exactly 7 o’clock the front door opened and the owner of Stone Hall Castle opened the door.

Medieval castle style chandeliers and upper marble balcony
Medieval castle style chandeliers and upper marble balcony

Once you step into the hallway of the castle, you are transported into a medieval world.  Forget about the world outside, once that door closes you could be in a castle in England in the 15th century. This certainly does look like a medieval castle.

Jason told me I was the only person who had booked the tour that evening and so I was getting a personal guided tour, which was rare, it was apparently only about the third one he had done. He explained that he’d been a professional ice hockey player in the German leagues from the late 1980s for about a decade, had then returned to Canada, invested in real estate and finally bought Stone Hall Castle when it came up for sale and turned it into Canada’s only medieval castle.  He had genuine European antique furniture and paintings that he’d purchased at auctions and the result was an interior that was a cohesive replica of a medieval dwelling fit for nobility, even down to the wax candles that lit the rooms with wax dripping all over the floors.  It did also have a few things that medieval English kings wouldn’t have had the benefit of, such as electricity and modern plumbing, which meant it was possible to have a wide screen television and a spa bath!

Queen Hayley of Yorkshire looking resplendent on her medieval throne
Queen Hayley of Yorkshire looking resplendent on her medieval throne

The history of the castle was an interesting one. It was constructed in 1926 and the story reminded me of the reason for the construction of Scotty’s Castle in Death Valley, all because of a woman. Our demand for high standards meant Scotty’s Castle was constructed so Albert Johnson’s wife wouldn’t have to sleep in a tent in the desert.

The story Jason told me behind the construction of Stone Hall Castle was similar. Francis Darke’s wife was terrified of being killed in a tornado, so her husband built her a house that was strong enough to withstand the high winds and rains that could tear through the city, destroying its more flimsy buildings.   Limestone was used to construct Stone Hall Castle and Annie Darke lived there in safety for almost 40 years until her death in the 1960s.

Wax candles throughout make the medieval interior look authentic, but I'm glad I don't have the job of cleaning in there!
Wax candles throughout make the medieval interior look authentic, but I’m glad I don’t have the job of cleaning in there!

Following the death of Annie Darke, the castle was bought by a family who ran it as a funeral home. I know castles are supposed to be haunted, but perhaps that is taking things a little bit too far! For a long time no one thought about Stone Hall Castle as being a castle at all, it was simply a chapel of rest and funeral director’s premises in the city of Regina.

The building was purchased by Jason in 2003 and he decided to renovate the interior and turn it into a medieval castle inside. He’d spent time in Bavaria an area particularly rich in castles and palaces, I wrote about some of them in my posts on the fairytale castles of King Ludwig II of Bavaria.

European paintings from as far back as the 15th century line the walls of Stone Hall Castle
European paintings from as far back as the 15th century line the walls of Stone Hall Castle

Jason said he did live in the castle so video wasn’t permitted, but I could take photos which was good. It was actually much better than I expected. But I’ll get to that later. He also said I wasn’t allowed to open drawers and wardrobes because it was his home. I presumed it had happened in the past which was the reason for implementing this rule, but it would never have occurred to me to do that anyway. Sometimes I wonder about people…

We started the tour on the ground floor.  Jason certainly likes his wax candles.  In the first room, there was a candelabra on the with wax dripping all over the floor. Jason said he was the one who cleaned up the wax, not a job I’d have liked very much. It must have been quite a task too, there were candelabras in most rooms.  This first room was a reception room with a dining table, the table and chairs were antiques, above there was a balcony and the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling were a typical style, like you would have had at a medieval banquet.

Desk where Queen Hayley of Yorkshire signs the Death Warrants!
Desk where Queen Hayley of Yorkshire signs the Death Warrants!

The library came next and the first thing I noticed, and that Jason also pointed out, was that there were no books in the library. He said he wanted to buy some antique books, but they were both ludicrously expensive and very rare, making it virtually impossible to fill a library, even a fairly modest sized one like this. In England I’m used to seeing old books in stately homes that have been in the family for centuries.  However, the families don’t tend to auction their books and few old books would have existed in Canada, so they wouldn’t be easy to come by.  I don’t know whether Jason will decide to leave the library without books or purchase some replicas, but it seems unlikely he’ll be able to stock Stone Hall Castle’s library in the same way as somewhere like Chatsworth House.

Nevertheless, I was enjoying my tour of the castle so far, I thought the bear skin rug was a nice twist, it was something that could have graced the floor of a medieval castle in England, but it was also a very Canadian animal, I’d had a close encounter with a black bear in Manitoba just two days before. Thankfully the bear was too interested in his Saskatoon berries to bother about me! Jason admitted he was quite scared of bears, as I recounted my adventure in Riding Mountain to him.

Medieval style fireplace
Medieval style fireplace

We then went into the cinema room and I settled on a comfortable sofa to watch a video about renting Stone Hall Castle for a special occasion or staying the night. It was something I would have loved to have done, but it was so expensive, unless I acquire a lot more money than I’ve got now, it wasn’t about to become a reality any time soon.  The tours were the main business at Stone Hall Castle, events and overnight stays were more occasional. Something to bear in mind if I ever win the Euro Millions…

After watching the video the tour continued upstairs and this was where I got to see the bedroom suites.

I was allowed to sit on the antique four poster bed, a real novelty and delight for a Yorkshire lass used to looking at antiques from behind ropes in England
I was allowed to sit on the antique four poster bed, a real novelty and delight for a Yorkshire lass used to looking at antiques from behind ropes in England

The bedrooms were fitted out with antique furniture, including 16th century wooden framed beds from Europe that had been acquired at auction. The beds were covered with animal hides. I absolutely loved the bedroom suites.

In the first bedroom suite I asked Jason if he’d take a photo of me by the bed, assuring him I’d be careful not to touch it.  Jason said I could lay on the bed if I wanted to. I was surprised. When you go in medieval castles and stately homes in England you can’t touch anything. Furniture is roped off and alarmed, it is strictly look but don’t touch.  So being able to sit on this bed was completely alien to me.

The bathrooms have copper baths installed in them and Jason suggested I get into the bath for a photo. This was a first for me, clambering into a copper bath in a medieval suite to have my photo taken. It was something that I was never going to get the opportunity to do again, so I climbed in!

I was invited to climb into the copper bath to try it out - minus the water!
I was invited to climb into the copper bath to try it out – minus the water!

The second bedroom had another antique, wooden framed bed also covered with animal skins. I laid back in a relaxing pose on that bed too for more photos and being able to do that really set this tour apart.  As I’ve said, being English, I’m so used to not being able to get close enough to an antique bed in an English castle for a decent photo, never mind being able to lay on it, that the opportunity to get great photos like this was a real treat.

There were plenty of paintings in the castle and these were all old paintings bought from European collections, dating back several hundred years.  The fireplaces looked authentic. I was really enjoying looking around.

What every medieval queen would have wished her bathroom looked like
What every medieval queen would have wished her bathroom looked like

Stone Hall Castle also has a throne room with wooden thrones and again, I was permitted to sit on one of the antique thrones, like I was a queen, for more photos. I also sat at a desk in the room where as a queen I would have signed the death warrants! Probably the only thing I’d be interested in signing as a queen. I’d be like the madcap Queen Elizabeth I in Blackadder!

I have an interest in English history and enjoy watching historical documentaries, so Jason and I chatted at some length about the history of English monarchs. Obviously I learnt a lot of English history at school, and coupled with the reading I’ve done and the historical properties I’ve visited in England in my lifetime, I have a fairly extensive knowledge base, so it made for a really interesting conversation.

We ended by going to the top floor of the castle, to the Master Suite with another medieval wooden bed with animal furs covering it and a hot tub in the bathroom. I didn’t lay on this particular bed as this was the room Jason was using as his bedroom. I thought it would be inappropriate to lay on this bed for a photo, so I didn’t even ask.

Sitting room in one of the suites with more wax candle chandeliers
Sitting room in one of the suites with more wax candle chandeliers

The décor in Stone Hall Castle, the antique furniture, the candelabras with their candles dripping wax on the floor, the animal hides on the beds, copper baths, bear skin rugs, old portraits, suits of armour, everything in here makes you believe you are in a medieval castle and for an hour and a half you really can leave the outside world behind and indulge in the fantasy that you’re living as a noble in 15th century England.  The fact that you can sit on the furniture rather than having to look at everything from behind ropes makes it a much more realistic experience, you’re completely transported into the past, you can genuinely believe in the fantasy, even if only for a short time.

Isn’t it every girl’s dream to live as a queen in a castle? Well for a while, on that Wednesday evening in Regina, I was living that dream.

I never got tired of laying back on the sumptuous beds on my "date" at Stone Hall Castle
I never got tired of laying back on the sumptuous beds on my “date” at Stone Hall Castle

My ultimate fantasy would be to wear a beautiful long dress, fit for a queen and spend a couple of nights at Stone Hall Castle. I think that fiction will also have to remain firmly in my imagination.

I would thoroughly recommend a tour of Stone Hall Castle. Seeing inside Canada’s only medieval castle is a unique experience.  Jason is, quite rightly, very proud of what he’s done to Stone Hall Castle since he bought it and that’s easy to see in his enthusiastic tour presentation. It was a brilliant way for me to spend my last night in Canada. I can’t promise you’ll get a personal tour like I did, but you will have a fabulous time.

I travelled to Saskatchewan in mid July 2018.

Stone Hall Castle is located in Regina.  Tours cost $30 CAD per adult. More details about Canada’s only medieval castle can be found on the Stone Hall Castle website.

I stayed at Dragon’s Nest Bed and Breakfast which is a 10 minute walk from Stone Hall Castle and the Royal Saskatchewan Museum.

 

To read about more of the castles I’ve visited throughout the world, check out these posts.

Kronborg Castle in Denmark.
Helsingør – Hamlet’s Castle

King Ludwig II’s fantasy castles and palaces and related palaces in Bavaria.
Neuschwanstein Castle
Linderhof Palace
Palace of Herrenchiemsee
Schloss Nymphenburg and the Munich Residenz

 

Read more about my trip to Canada in the below posts

Canada: Points East Coastal Drive on Prince Edward Island

Canada: North Cape Coastal Trail Part 1

Canada: North Cape Coastal Trail Part 2

Canada: Charlottetown – Pocket Capital of Prince Edward Island

Canada: Cavendish and the Rotating House of North Rustico

Canada: Quebec – Waterfalls, Via Ferrata and A Religious Theme Park

Canada: Magnetic Hill and Fundy National Park

Canada: Saint John River Valley

Germany: Schloss Nymphenburg and the Munich Residenz

Bridge at the end of Schloss Nymphenburg Gardens
Bridge at the end of Schloss Nymphenburg Gardens

Whilst in Bavaria, as well as visiting all of King Ludwig II’s castles and palaces, I also wanted to fit in a couple of royal residences in Munich, particularly Schloss Nymphenburg which was King Ludwig I’s palace.  He was King Ludwig II’s grandfather and I’d read about his palace, Nymphenburg.  And it was only a 10 minute walk from my hotel in Munich.

It was a lovely warm day and after a short wander through the gardens, I bought my ticket for the palace to have a look around the interior. The Queen’s bedchamber was the birthplace of King Ludwig II, so there was still a connection to Mad King Ludwig at this palace.

The Great Hall is the entrance to Schloss Nymphenburg
The Great Hall is the entrance to Schloss Nymphenburg

The Great Hall at the start of the tour is the most impressive of the rooms, the other rooms aren’t particularly special, they seemed to be fairly standard as far as rooms in royal palaces go.

Yellow Guest Apartment in Schloss Nymphenburg
Yellow Guest Apartment in Schloss Nymphenburg

However, I was particularly interested in seeing the Gallery of Beauties that I’d read about. King Ludwig I, who liked the ladies, had paintings commissioned of 36 women he considered beautiful and hung them in this gallery in his palace. His gallery was unusual because he didn’t just commission paintings of princesses and noble women, any woman he considered beautiful was painted.

In the grounds of Nymphenburg with the palace building behind me
In the grounds of Nymphenburg with the palace building behind me

Amongst the portraits was that of Lola Montez, the king’s mistress, who ended up being his downfall.  Lola Montez had reinvented herself as a Spanish dancer, but in fact she was born Eliza Gilbert in Ireland.  She had travelled to Europe to seek her fame as an actress and dancer. She couldn’t act, or dance either for that matter, but what she did have going for her was her exotic looks.  She was considered a striking beauty and had a string of influential men as lovers, including Franz Liszt, and finally ended up as the mistress of King Ludwig I of Bavaria until his relationship with her forced him to abdicate and Lola was run out of town.  Quite a story behind that portrait!

The extensive grounds behind Nymphenburg Palace
The extensive grounds behind Nymphenburg Palace

I enjoyed the tour of the palace and after that I had a walk around the grounds. The gardens were beautiful with fountains and bridges in both the formal front gardens and the grounds at the back of the palace. In May the flowers were out all, lots of orange and yellow ones at the back of the palace that coincidentally matched my clothes. I walked right through the gardens all the way to a bridge at the end than crossed over the stream with a distant view of the palace ahead.  I then made my way to the formal grounds at the front of the palace and stood on the balcony at the front of the palace which was lit by ornate lamp posts.

Standing on the front balcony of Nymphenburg Palace
Standing on the front balcony of Nymphenburg Palace

After my initial rush to Nymphenburg to make sure I saw it before it closed for the day, I then headed to the Hirschgarten, the largest beer garden in Europe, which was basically next door to my hotel. It was packed out because it was Mother’s Day.  In fact, on the plane, the Lufthansa flight attendant brought round a bottle of sparkling wine because it was Mother’s Day.

Yellow, orange and white flowers match the colour of my clothes as I walk along the path
Yellow, orange and white flowers match the colour of my clothes as I walk along the path

In the beer garden I had a couple of Hugo cocktails, which were a speciality of the area, a combination of prosecco, elderflower syrup and mint. I decided that cheese would be a nice accompaniment to my cocktail so I ordered some and ended up with a very weird concoction, a mixture of Brie, cream cheese and butter, which was bright orange accompanied by pretzels!  It probably contained my fat allowance for the next 5 years and would no doubt send my cholesterol levels through the roof!

As it was my first day in Munich and had been an early morning I decided to leave it at that for today and continue my exploration of Munich at a later date.

Schloss Nymphenburg seen from a different bridge
Schloss Nymphenburg seen from a different bridge

Four days later, having seen all of King Ludwig II’s fantastical castles and palaces, I spent my day in the city of Munich.

First of all, I charged to the top of St Peter’s church tower because that’s what I do.  I’ve got a thing about climbing church or cathedral towers anywhere I go and I also have a thing about using the steps, even if there’s a lift. So I charged up the tower using the staircase. Once at the top of the tower I had a view overlooking Marienplatz, Munich’s main central square.

View of some of Munich's historical buildings from the top of St Peter's Church tower
View of some of Munich’s historical buildings from the top of St Peter’s Church tower

When I descended to ground level and started to look around, I then noticed that all the shops were shut and discovered that today was Ascension Day and it was celebrated here as a public holiday because Bavaria is still predominantly Catholic, so religious holidays are generally observed.

Fortunately the Munich Residence was open so I went in there.  The Munich Residence had been the city palace of the Wittelsbach dynasty, the Bavarian royal family.  It was the seat of government for Bavarian during the monarchy and the largest city palace in Germany and was now open to the public.

Munich City Hall in Marienplatz
Munich City Hall in Marienplatz

I went in the Treasury first which contained the oldest known English crown which was for a queen.  It was interesting to think how it had ended up in Munich as it was an English crown.  The curators couldn’t be certain, but there was a theory that it had been part of a dowry.  There was also a king’s crown and it was so big it looked like it would fit round my waist!

My favourite piece in the Treasury was a beautiful statuette of St George on his horse killing the dragon made of hundreds of precious stones.

Beautiful statuette of St George killing the dragon from the Munich Treasury website
Beautiful statuette of St George killing the dragon from the Munich Treasury website

I was also fascinated by a travelling case for a queen which contained toiletries, a teapot, a sewing kit, a set of cutlery, a screwdriver and a drill!  I wondered what she would have used a drill for on her travels…

After that I went round the 900 rooms of the Munich Residence. No, it was only 90 rooms. It just felt like 900.  The audioguide actually said unfortunately not all of the rooms were open for viewing, only 96 were open!  96 was more than enough!  I was flagging at the end of that. None of the rooms were as impressive as at Mad King Ludwig’s palaces.

Cuvilliés Theatre stage
Cuvilliés Theatre stage

To be fair, a lot of the Munich Residence had been damaged in the Second World War, but it did make me appreciate the genius of King Ludwig II. The more I heard about him, the more I liked him. In the end all of the rooms started to look the same and the audio guide no longer held my interest.

Finally I spent 20 minutes in the Cuvilliés Theatre which is attached to the Munich Residence, but I had had enough of the Munich Residence by now.  The only way it would have held my attention would have been if I’d been there to watch a ballet or an opera. I have to say I preferred being in the mountains and countryside to being in the city.

Inside the Munich Cuvilliés Theatre, part of the Munich Residenz
Inside the Munich Cuvilliés Theatre, part of the Munich Residenz

On leaving the Munich Residence I made my way to the English Garden to have a walk round.  The English Garden was busy, probably because it was a Bank holiday. It was a nice place for a wander and I also saw the river surfers on the Eisbach, an artificial stream running by the edge of the park.  It’s a dangerous pastime and for experienced local surfers only, due to the rocks set into the concrete and the shallow water.  It looked terrifying to me!

Afterwards I went for an ice cream and then into a beer cellar, but because it was Ascension Day and a public holiday it was really crowded.  It wasn’t my kind of thing at all.  I’m not really a beer drinker and I hate crowds.  So going into a crowded beer cellar on a Bank Holiday was probably not the best idea I’d ever had…

Historical centre of Munich
Historical centre of Munich

I was happy to stick with castles and palaces and the undisputed genius of Mad King Ludwig II of Bavaria.

I would thoroughly recommend Schloss Nymphenburg, the Treasury and the Munich Residence in Munich city centre.  But be selective in the Munich Residence.  Don’t try and see all 96 plus rooms that are open unless you want to end up in a trance by the end of it like I did!

I travelled in Bavaria during the second week of May in 2015.

Unlike the palaces and castles of King Ludwig II, photography is permitted inside Schloss Nymphenburg, the Munich Residence, the Treasury and the Cuvilliés Theatre.  If you want to see more, click on the below links to the official websites. General information, including admission prices, can be found on these websites.

I bought a 14 day pass which was valid for a large number of castles and palaces throughout Bavaria and cost 24 Euros. This leaflet details all attractions covered by the 14 day pass which includes Schloss Nymphenburg, the Munich Treasury, the Munich Residence and the Cuvilliés Theatre.

In 2018 tickets for Schloss Nymphenburg cost 6.00 Euros per person. There are no guided tours of the palace, but an audioguide is available for 3.50 Euros per person.

In 2018 tickets for Munich Residence cost 7.00 Euros per person and include a free audio guide. Tickets for the Treasury cost 7.00 Euros per person and include a free audio guide. Tickets for the Cuvilliés Theatre cost 3.50 Euros per person.

Combination tickets for the Munich Residence and Treasury cost 11.00 Euros per person and combination tickets for the Residence, Treasury and Theatre cost 13.00 Euros per person.

I stayed at Hotel Kriemhild close to the Hirschgarten in Munich and a 10 minute walk from Schloss Nymphenburg.

I flew to Munich direct from Birmingham Airport with Lufthansa

Read the three instalments about my tours of King Ludwig II’s fantasy castles and palaces.
Neuschwanstein Castle
Linderhof Palace
Palace of Herrenchiemsee

Read about my other adventures on my trip to Bavaria and Austria.
Paragliding in the Bavarian Alps
Surreal Night at the Rattlesnake Saloon
Längenfeld Aqua Dome Spa

I love visiting castles and palaces. Read about other castles I’ve visited around the world.
Kronborg – A Visit to Hamlet’s Castle

Germany: Palace of Herrenchiemsee

Balancing on the edge of the Latona fountain
Balancing on the edge of the Latona fountain

On my final day of visiting King Ludwig II’s fantastical castles and palaces, today it was the turn of Herrenchiemsee Palace.

Herrenchiemsee Palace is on an island in a lake. King Ludwig II craved isolation to live in his fantasy world and building a palace on an island was an ideal solution for achieving solitude. He even made sure that the palace was built where it was not visible from the lake for an added measure of privacy.

The Palace of Herrenchiemsee was to be a copy of the Palace of Versailles
The Palace of Herrenchiemsee was to be a copy of the Palace of Versailles

I spent the day on Chiemsee, the largest lake in Bavaria, known as the Sea of Bavaria. To start with I got the boat from Prien am Chiemsee over to Herren Insel and headed straight to Herrenchiemsee.

Herrenchiemsee was King Ludwig II’s most extravagant and ambitious building project. He wanted it to be a copy of Versailles, as he greatly admired King Louis XIV of France, but King Ludwig wanted his palace to be bigger than Versailles. It is bigger than Versailles and the Hall of Mirrors is longer than the one at Versailles. But it was never finished.

Latona Fountain with Herrenchiemsee Palace in the background
Latona Fountain with Herrenchiemsee Palace in the background

When you go into the North Staircase of the palace it’s richly decorated, but the decoration of the South Staircase which was supposed to match its counterpart was never begun and is exposed bare brick. Even so, with very little completed, the money King Ludwig spent on the building you see today amounted to around a staggering £150 million in today’s money. After the death of King Ludwig II, part of the palace was demolished.

I did a tour of the palace and it was an excellent tour. The more I saw of the handiwork of Mad King Ludwig, the more I liked him. Every room just surprises and amazes. The bedrooms were extravagant and ridiculous, but strangely wonderful too. The Hall of Mirrors was a staggering spectacle and the dining room had a magic table that lowered through the floor like in Linderhof, so that the king could dine alone and enjoy his fantasies.

Fama Fountain with a man falling to his death into the mouth of a waiting dragon symbolising the triumph of good over evil
Fama Fountain with a man falling to his death into the mouth of a waiting dragon symbolising the triumph of good over evil

As for the bathroom, the bath took 8 hours to fill and heat, it was so deep, even at 6 feet 4, King Ludwig wouldn’t have kept his head above the water. It was more a swimming pool than a bath really. But a bath that size, that’s my kind of bathroom! This palace was absolutely huge and it was fantastic.

Sadly King Ludwig II only spent 9 nights in his wondrous palace. He actually spent more time in the Old Palace, where he stayed when overseeing the construction of Herrenchiemsee, than in his new palace.

Cherub riding a sinister looking dolphin in the pool of the Fortuna Fountain
Cherub riding a sinister looking dolphin in the pool of the Fortuna Fountain

After looking around Herrenchiemsee Palace, I went in the museum which had portraits of King Ludwig II and plans for his castles. The detail was incredible. There were designs for a soap dish and a gondola shaped cutlery holder! At first I thought it was a bit extreme, but after visiting the Munich Residence the following day, I realised you do need that kind of detail. I was very impressed.

Then I had a walk around the grounds of Herrenchiemsee and the thing that strikes you most about the gardens are the fountains which are incredible. The main fountain is a copy of one at Versailles and represents the story of Latona, mother of Apollo, and has frogs and turtles spouting water. The Fortuna fountain features the goddess on the wheel of fortune surrounded by cherubs riding dolphins. The Fama fountain has men falling to their death off the top of the fountain, representing Fama’s victory over evil. These were all sculpted in stone, not real, you understand. Everything that King Ludwig II designed was extravagant and over the top.

Standing in the Hall of Planes in the grounds of the Augustinian Monastery
Standing in the Hall of Planes in the grounds of the Augustinian Monastery

I went in the Augustinian Monastery known as the Old Palace where King Ludwig II had a couple of rooms where he stayed when he came over to Herren Insel to check on the progress of the building of Herrenchiemsee. I had a look around to see where King Ludwig had slept, in order to complete what had turned into a bit of a pilgrimage to Mad King Ludwig.  The Old Palace is only small and doesn’t take long to look around, but it’s certainly worth a stop if you have the time.

The Hall of Planes in front of the Old Palace with its view of Frauen Insel was planted in 1893 and the trees along this avenue were really beautiful.

A somewhat unexpected method of protecting the nuns of Frauen Insel!
A somewhat unexpected method of protecting the nuns of Frauen Insel!

After that I went over to Frauen Insel, the second largest of the three islands on Chiemsee. I walked right around the island, which you can do in about half an hour. Frauen Insel has around 300 permanent residents, many of whom are artists who sell their products in craft shops located around the perimeter path. Consequently it took me longer than 30 minutes to walk the island’s circuit because I spent time mooching in the craft shops and ended up with a wonderful metal frog from Frauen Insel who lives in my kitchen.

Frog purchased on Frauen Insel who now lives in my kitchen
Frog purchased on Frauen Insel who now lives in my kitchen

Frauen Insel is also home to a working 8th century Benedictine convent. I had a look inside the convent church. Frauen Insel is the home to Germany’s only island Christmas Market and the island is all lit up with candles and is beautifully decorated at Christmas, the nuns decorate the island and apparently it’s quite something to see. The Christmas market is another good reason for me to return to Bavaria.

During this trip to Bavaria, the only thing I did miss in my pilgrimage to King Ludwig II was Lake Starnberg where King Ludwig had died. However, after witnessing all his wonderful creations I’d seen on this trip by visiting his visionary castles and palaces, demonstrating the wonderful imagination of this eccentric king, I think seeing the lake where he died would have been rather a sad conclusion to my tour and only succeeded in ending things on a low note. Maybe I would go there on another visit to Bavaria.

Another example of the crafts available on Frauen Insel
Another example of the crafts available on Frauen Insel

For this trip I thought it far better to leave rejoicing in the fantastical palaces and fairytale castles which were the lasting legacy of this sensitive, dreamy king than go the place where he met his tragic demise. He had left some wonderful buildings behind for the world to enjoy and I had thoroughly enjoyed them all and that was what I wanted to remember about the amazing King Ludwig II from this holiday.

On the shores of Chiemsee
On the shores of Chiemsee

I travelled in Bavaria during the second week of May in 2015.

As with the other palaces and castles of King Ludwig II, no photographs can be taken inside Herrenchiemsee, but the official website is excellent, with beautiful photos of the interior of each room in the virtual tour.

General information, including admission prices, can be found on the official palace website.

I bought a 14 day pass which was valid for a large number of castles and palaces throughout Bavaria and cost 24 Euros. This leaflet details all attractions covered by the 14 day pass.

You can only visit Herrenchiemsee as part of a guided tour.
In 2018 tickets for a guided tour of Herrenchiemsee cost 11.00 Euros per person and include admission to the King Ludwig II museum and the Augustinian Monastery as well as to the special art exhibition Königsklasse until 3 October.

From 4 October through until May, the Königsklasse special exhibition is closed. During this time, the ticket price is reduced to 9.00 Euros per person and includes a guided tour of the palace of Herrenchiemsee, admission to the King Ludwig II museum and Augustinian Monastery.

Combination tickets for entry to Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee cost 26 Euros per person.

Herrenchiemsee is located on Herren Insel on Chiemsee Lake.  The island can be accessed by boat from Prien am Chiemsee.  Prien am Chiemsee is 88km from Munich which is an approximate one and a quarter hour drive from the city.

Boats from Prien am Chiemsee to Herren Insel run regularly from approximately 7am to 7pm. Boats also stop at Frauen Insel.  Return tickets from Prien am Chiemsee which include a stop on Herren Insel and Frauen Insel cost 9.40 Euros per person.  Details of ticket prices and timetables can be found on the Chiemsee ferry website.

I stayed at Hotel Kriemhild close to the Hirschgarten in Munich.

I flew to Munich direct from Birmingham Airport with Lufthansa

Read further instalments about my tours of King Ludwig II’s fantasy castles and palaces.
Neuschwanstein Castle
Linderhof Palace

I also visited the Bavarian palaces in Munich.
Schloss Nymphenburg and the Munich Residenz

Read about my other adventures on my trip to Bavaria and Austria.
Paragliding in the Bavarian Alps
Surreal Night at the Rattlesnake Saloon
Längenfeld Aqua Dome Spa

I love visiting castles and palaces. Read about other castles I’ve visited around the world.
Kronborg – A Visit to Hamlet’s Castle