I had arrived in Quebec City the previous afternoon and much as I liked the look of it, I’d had my fill of cities and museums for a while after St John’s and Ottawa.
I was now longing to get out into the countryside and a day hiking at Canyon St Anne, looking round the religious theme park in the town of St Anne de Beaupré and viewing Montmorency Falls just outside the city was what I needed.
There are 2 waterfalls not too far from Quebec City, the famous Montmorency Falls are very close by and there are also waterfalls further out at Canyon St Anne. I decided to go to Canyon St Anne first because it was further away and work my way back towards Quebec City.
It was about a 45 minute drive to Canyon St Anne and I actually passed Montmorency Falls on my way, they’re impossible to miss if you’re driving on the main road towards St Anne de Beaupré. Canyon St Anne is beyond the town of St Anne de Beaupré and the signs began to appear for the canyon and the parking, although it wasn’t clear whether access to the canyon was open. I hoped that now it was July, all the summer tourist attractions would be open.
The car park was open and there were enough cars in it for me to conclude that the canyon was accessible today. There is an entrance fee to access the canyon and a well maintained trail takes you to viewing points to a series of waterfalls and there are also 3 suspension bridges to cross on this trail.
There was also something called the Air Canyon which is like a chair lift, except it goes a bit faster. You basically sit in this chair lift and it shoots you across the canyon for a view of the waterfalls and then brings you back again. It gives you a nice view of the waterfalls, but it is over in seconds. It’s not remotely scary, if you can go on a chair lift, you can do this. Compared to a zipline it’s easy. If you want scary, don’t bother with the Air Canyon. Canyon St Anne has a much more terrifying option!
I started hiking the trail and following the story of the petraminis who were little coloured goblins who brought rainbows to the canyon. I think the storyboards were aimed more at children, but I enjoyed reading about the adventures of the different coloured petraminis who defeated the evil giant and each contributed a colour to form a rainbow through the canyon.
I really enjoyed the hiking trail, there were lovely views of the falls which tumble in several stages. There are 3 bridges to cross which give more viewpoints of the canyon and waterfalls.
The terrifying option available at Canyon St Anne is the Via Ferrata. I know all about Via Ferrata from my work as a tour guide. Whilst taking coach loads of tourists through the Dolomites, I would explain that these were an Italian invention first used when mountaineering took off in the Alps. Via Ferrata literally means “iron way” and a series of metal rungs have been drilled into the mountainside as a means of assisted climbing making routes accessible that would otherwise have been too difficult. The Via Ferrata routes through the Alps were used during the First World War and saved many lives. In the Dolomites they are, once again, used recreationally by Alpine climbers, but you do need to have proper training and equipment to use them. It is for entirely this reason that my knowledge of Via Ferrata was purely theoretical, I have neither the equipment nor the training to use the Via Ferrata routes through the Dolomites. So I had never actually tried Via Ferrata myself.
I’d always thought I’d like to give Via Ferrata a try. I’d seen it on telly and it looked like the kind of experience an adrenaline junkie like me would thrive on. And here was my chance to try it, in Canyon St Anne, today!
I’d been watching some people on the course, some of them quite young children, as I walked on the trail. That was one of the advantages and disadvantages. It was easy to see the climbers, so you could see how other people were managing on the Via Ferrata course you might like to try. Conversely it meant if you were on the Via Ferrata route, people hiking on the trail could stand and watch you!
I walked up to the desk where people were kitting up to do the next Via Ferrata course and I asked if there were any spaces. Most people book online, but you can turn up and see if there are any spots. As I hadn’t really considered doing the Via Ferrata before I got here, but was happy to spend time at the canyon whether I climbed up the side of the waterfall or not, I hadn’t booked online. However, as I was a single person, it was easy to slot me in.
There were several routes ranging from an hour and a half to four hours and they were suitable for children from the age of 6 for the easiest route to 12 year olds on the most difficult route. The Via Ferrata at Canyon St Anne was also advertised as suitable for pensioners. It was fun for the whole family!
Sebastian told me there was space for one person and advised the Marmite route which was the easiest one. All the routes went up the side of the waterfall, but this route went up the left side where there was more rock and you were further away from the water so you didn’t get wet. I could take my rucksack with me, and therefore also my camera, and it took around 90 minutes to complete. I took Sebastian’s advice and signed up for this route, which was the course that 6 year olds can do!
I was relieved that I hadn’t booked online. If I’d booked online I would have likely decided to challenge myself and signed up to the difficult route for 12 year olds. And I would never have managed it. I struggled on the course for 6 year olds!
Our guide was Dario and I was doing the Via Ferrata with two American Chinese couples. I let all 4 of them go ahead of me and went last. I’m not athletically gifted and know from previous caving experiences and suchlike, I’m likely to be slow and hold everyone else up. So I let them all go in front of me.
Via Ferrata is much more difficult than it looks. When I’d been watching the participants doing the Marmite course that I was doing, it looked relatively easy. It wasn’t. It was extremely difficult. It was also terrifying!
I’d seen plenty of those tightropes across river gorges on television, the sort where you stand on the bottom rope and hold onto the top one and make your way across. I’d never had any opportunity to try one before. The first one seemed to stretch a long way across the canyon. I stepped on it and edged my way across. It wasn’t too bad, but it was pretty wobbly. I don’t know why I’d expected it not to be. I suppose I must have been thinking it would be a rigid wire. No, it wasn’t. I couldn’t believe this was advertised as something 6 year olds and pensioners could do.
The Marmite Via Ferrata course consisted of climbing metal rungs while being attached to a steel cable drilled into the side of a cliff. When I had to go down, I was told to come down backwards and hold onto the steel rope, except that meant I couldn’t see either where I was going, or more importantly, where my foot was supposed to go.
I was useless. I’d been wise to do the shortest, easiest route, this was hard enough and I was petrified.
We all had a lifeline and a safety line. The lifeline was permanently attached to the steel cable, the safety line was there to keep us closer to the cable if we wanted to stop and take photos. Otherwise the safety line wasn’t attached because it contained a shock absorber, so if we did fall it would very slowly lengthen to break the fall. I was very careful about attaching the safety line every time I stopped to take photos.
You’ll be pleased to know that I didn’t fall; I did bash my knees, shins, elbows, forearms and left thigh and ended up with amazing bruises on them all!
Dario asked if I wanted to do the easy or intermediate route a little further on. He said the intermediate route wasn’t too bad and he seemed reasonably confident I could do it. With this encouragement and knowing I was going to be terrified either way, why not challenge myself even if it made me a bit more scared?
Until I saw the photos I didn’t realise what a climb it was, using the rungs in the more difficult parts and trying to work out which piece of rock you could put your feet on otherwise. I got stuck quite a few times and Dario had to point out the route. It still wasn’t easy, but I had some guidance.
However, at one stage I was faced with a tightrope with no overhead wire. Again, this was no rigid steel cable, it sagged in the middle with your weight. Therefore it was impossible to stay upright on the tightrope and keep my balance. That was where I was going wrong. The idea here was not to stay upright. I had to hang onto the cable I was attached to and lean back to get along the tightrope. Afterwards I recalled that I’d seen that technique on the telly, but I wasn’t thinking straight enough to remember that. Despite the first tightrope not being too bad, my legs were still shaking uncontrollably when I reached the other side.
As I came to the last part of the course, predictably the other four had all finished and Dario looked after me to make sure I got to the end of the course in one piece. He guided me personally and told me his mum wouldn’t do the course, she was too scared. Even though he did it to make me feel better, he simply succeeded in making me feel really old, I suspected his mother was about the same age as me, because Dario only looked about 20!
I then became aware, as I struggled through the last part of the route, I had an audience. The viewpoint where I had been standing a couple of hours ago watching the Via Ferrata participants, was now full of new spectators. People at the legitimate falls viewpoint were observing me fumbling along the cliff at the side of the falls and they were about to watch me do the last tightrope. Surely this tightrope couldn’t be too bad? I’d seen really little kids crossing this earlier. Thankfully this tightrope was short and it was easy. Even so, you really don’t want people watching you when you’re crossing it, but as I had been guilty of viewing people here, I couldn’t really complain. I perhaps hadn’t thought this through completely beforehand. If you don’t want an audience, the trick is to do the Via Ferrata as early as possible before the canyon gets busy.
I apologised to Dario for being so slow on the course, but he didn’t seem bothered. The other four were waiting for me and one of the Chinese men said he’d been scared too. At least I could be proud of myself for doing the more difficult route when given the choice. I’d done the route unsuitable for children under 10! What an achievement!
After completing the Via Ferrata course, we then got to do the fun bit, the zipline! The zipline held no fear for me. On the other hand, getting to the zipline platform on the short Via Ferrata course was scary! I went last again, but I didn’t care.
Sebastian was in control of the zipline and he had plenty of time before he started his next Via Ferrata course, so he had a bit of fun with us, controlling the length and speed of our travel across the zipline with a rope. Sebastian let out the rope so far and then stopped it, so we could stop in the middle of the zipline over the canyon for a view. When Sebastian sent me over on the zipline and stopped me in the middle, I was quite happy to dangle over the river on the rope, I didn’t even hold on! That part was immensely enjoyable and didn’t bother me at all.
Once over to the far side of the river on the zipline, I had to walk across the bridge and give my harness and helmet back and then I could continue on the hiking trail.
I was down at the bottom of the trail now, I had descended as far as I could down into the canyon, so now it was an uphill walk on the other side of the river. As I continued on the walk I saw more people on the Via Ferrata routes. As well as people on the Marmite course on the opposite side of the river, doing the dry climb up the side of the waterfall like I had done, I also now had a good view of the people on the La Chute course.
This route went up the opposite side of the waterfall from the Marmite route and was much closer to the water, so the rocks were slippery and the participants got wet! If I’d seen it online, I’d probably have been stupid enough to book it thinking I could manage it, in reality I don’t think I would have had a chance, especially with wet rock to contend with. Despite it being suitable for 12 year olds, this was not something this 47 year old felt she would be able to accomplish.
I stood at a viewpoint looking down and the Via Ferrata climbers were just below, clambering up the slippery, wet rocks. I watched one large girl with a large chest to match wearing a low cut top being attached to the guide with a rope to make it up this difficult section. I wondered if she was aware that her wardrobe choice probably hadn’t been the wisest for this particular activity. At that particular moment in time I imagined it was probably the least of her worries. I could envisage that if I’d have done this route, the guide would have been attaching me to a rope as well, probably more than once.
Yet again, I was relieved I hadn’t done anything ridiculous like booking in advance and had waited until I arrived, especially since the 90 minute route I’d done had evidently used muscles that hadn’t had any exercise in years, judging by the fact that for the next 4 days I could barely sit down! My arms ached from the hanging on, but this was nothing compared to my thigh muscles which had obviously done the majority of the work on this climbing route. I could hardly get up and down steps and sitting down was absolute agony. Getting in and out of a low car was especially painful.
I’d never done anything that had made me hurt so much for so long in my life. Caving was very punishing and I always got aches and bruises from adventure caving, but it had never been as bad as this. I couldn’t determine whether this was because Via Ferrata was more demanding on your body or it had been more than 7 years since I’d done adventure caving and my body was less able to cope with these kinds of demands now I was older.
Yes, this had been my first Via Ferrata course and was also highly likely to be my last. Those guides who lead those courses every day must be super fit and have leg muscles like iron!
After completing the hiking trail I got back in my car and left Canyon St Anne for the town of St Anne de Beaupré, described in one of my guidebooks as a sort of religious theme park.
The town of St Anne de Beaupré is dedicated to the saint, who was the Virgin Mary’s mother. St Anne de Beaupré is the second oldest pilgrimage site in North America. The basilica is certainly impressive, a huge building in its own square, it wouldn’t have looked out of place in France. The basilica is also a lot bigger than any of the churches in Quebec City itself. As well as an impressive exterior, it is also magnificent inside containing the shrine of St Anne de Beaupré and a huge chapel in the basilica basement. There were several other religious buildings close by the cathedral and also a pathway with the stages of the Way of the Cross depicted by carvings. This is obviously what was meant by “religious theme park” and actually that was quite a good description.
I don’t consider myself to be religious, but I did find it all rather moving. It was impossible not to be touched by the whole package of the basilica, religious buildings and especially the Way of the Cross walk.
And finally it was time to move on to Montmorency Falls, the place where everyone who stays in Quebec City goes to visit. I eventually found the parking at the top of the falls.
I set off on foot to do even more hiking and started off by walking across the suspension bridge at the top of the falls. At 83m high, Montmorency Falls are higher than Niagara, but they don’t have the same impact as they don’t have the same volume of water. Montmorency Falls is also a single drop waterfall. Having looked at some photos, Montmorency Falls look more impressive in winter when snow feeds the side waterfalls and you can walk across the snow to them, although I don’t believe there’s enough snow for that every year. Nevertheless, they are very powerful.
I walked down a series of steps to the bottom of the falls. One viewing platform was soaked because of the spray, so I contented myself with other viewing platforms which were plenty close enough. I’d managed to avoid getting wet at Canyon St Anne today, I didn’t really want to get wet now. The bridge at the base of the falls is a lot further away from the falls, but you get a different perspective of them, so I walked to the bridge and then back to the viewing platforms near the bottom of the falls. Now it was time to haul back up all the steps to the top of the falls to get to my car. By the time I got to my car I was really tired, but at least it was only a short drive back to Quebec City.
Unfortunately, trying to get to the hotel car park was a nightmare because of all the diversions because of the music festival going on there at the moment. I was driving round in circles. Eventually I spoke to a policeman, in French at first, since we were in the French speaking part of Canada and I needed this policeman’s help. I thought it best to make some sort of effort in his first language. Although I learnt French at school, I rarely visit France and my French these days is pretty bad. The policeman could tell I was struggling and asked if I’d prefer to speak in English. In relief I told him my problem and he let me know what to do to get to my hotel car park.
It was just coincidence I was in Quebec City while the music festival was on; I wasn’t there to attend any events. The previous night I’d been to a jazz concert because the theatre was selling tickets at a reduced price as I walked past. The concert was ghastly. Calling it jazz should have been questioned by trade descriptions, because it wasn’t like any jazz I’d ever heard. The couple sitting next to me lasted 3 numbers, I walked out at half time with no intention of returning and I wasn’t the only one. There were only about 40 people in the audience, so it wasn’t like this musician could afford to lose members of the audience! But you would have had to be a die hard fan to stay to the end, it really was just a horrible noise!
I decided not to risk any further musical events this evening, instead I was going to treat myself to some food and a cocktail at the bar in the famous Chateau Frontenac Hotel. I didn’t manage to get a table right next to the window in the bar, but I could see out of the window.
I looked at the cocktail menu and ordered a Penicillin which was made with Scotch, single malt, lemon juice, honey and ginger. It seemed appropriate that I should be drinking a cocktail called Penicillin after the exercise on the Via Ferrata course, plus all the walking I’d done and the steps I’d climbed today. I also ordered a cheese plate to enjoy with my Penicillin and relaxed in the surroundings of the opulent Chateau Frontenac bar with Quebec City lit up outside. After my high intensity day I certainly needed a rest.
I travelled to Quebec in early July 2018.
Canyon St Anne is located 42km away from Quebec City, an approximate 40 minute drive. You can find details about Canyon St Anne on the website. Canyon St Anne is open from May until October. Entrance fee is $14 for adults and gives access to the hiking trails and bridges at the canyon. The Air Canyon costs an extra $15 per person.
The Via Ferrata trails at Canyon St Anne are operated by Projet Vertical. You can choose from several packages where you can do one course or combine routes. I did the Giant’s Pothole Course and Zipline which was one of the easiest Via Ferrata routes, taking the intermediate line at the fork. I also stayed dry. Prices start from $40 plus tax. It is best to book online in advance to guarantee a place.
The town of St Anne de Beaupré is located 33km from Quebec city, just a half hour drive away. There is a large basilica, several exterior chapels and the Way of the Cross walk in the town.
Montmorency Falls are a 15 minute drive from Quebec City. You can easily see the falls from the road, but for a better view you can stop and walk around. The Falls are accessible year round. There is a charge of around $12 for parking. There is also a cable car which is open all year. In addition there is a zipline and Via Ferrata courses at Montmorency Falls which are open from June to October. Details of all these can be found on the Montmorency Falls website.
Chateau Frontenac is one of the original Canadian Pacific Railway hotels. It is located in the heart of Quebec City and is currently part of the Fairmont Hotels group. You can stay at the hotel or simply have a meal in one of the restaurants or a drink in the bar.
I stayed at Unilofts Grand-Allée in the centre of Quebec City, approximately 10 minutes walk to the historic heart of the city. There is a charge for parking at the hotel.
Check out my posts about my other Canadian adventures.
North Cape Coastal Drive Part 1
North Cape Coastal Drive Part 2
Charlottetown – Pocket Capital of Prince Edward Island
Cavendish and the Rotating House of North Rustico
Canada: Saint John River Valley
Canada: Magnetic Hill and Fundy National Park
Read about other adrenaline fuelled adventures
Greenland: Viewing the Aurora Borealis by Snowmobile